Speaking of Being Off the Grid

For those of you that aren't familiar with New Zealand's Great Walks, I thought I'd go into a little more detail about what Michael and I did. 

In order to conserve the beauty and experience of these 9 amazing trails, the Dept. of Conservation restricts/regulates the use during the warmer months of the year, and you have to reserve spots at the huts along the trails. The huts have bunk rooms, flush toilets, only cold running untreated water (no showers), basic gas stoves, and the only electricity is lights are solar/timer operated in the kitchen area. Every hut has its own ranger with a very different personality, our favorite being Ross at the Clinton Hut. His is an older man living his second/dream career, and he appears in lots of photographs in books people have made of the trail (we found him in at least three different publications). He carries an oldschool exterior frame pack and will talk your ear off about wildlife and plants. 

Michael and I were both amazed at how well the huts and trails are maintained. Every toilet and latrine was stocked with toilet paper. Almost every part of the trail was clearly marked. There were beautiful suspension bridges as well as smaller log ones, and well-maintained drainage ditches on the side of many parts of the trail. The money we paid to use the huts and trail is clearly put to good use. Even spots where there had clearly been an avalanche or flood in recent months had been fixed up sufficiently.

Speaking of avalanches, we heard one when we were at McKinnon Pass - the first time I've ever heard one. We were in the one of the best spots one can be when you hear snow and earth rumbling, up just about as high as we could get (so we knew it wasn't coming down to us), but it was a little unnerving we couldn't see where the avalanche had happened through the clouds. We didn't know if at some point we would come upon a part of the trail that simply vanished, but we didn't. Apparently a group of three staying in the huts with us had been close to where the avalanche had hit, and was very lucky to not be affected. Even in summer when there's barely any snow, you never know what will happen on the trail. 

Speaking of people we met at the huts, I was so impressed how well everyone looked after each other. From us and a few other Americans, to some Aussies and Kiwis, Germans, Israelis, Koreans, and probably people from other countries that we didn't get to talk to, it was quite a diverse crowd. Everyone was happy to share the common spaces and items - happy to share a lighter to light the stove. When a party of three took a very long time to make it to the third hut, other individuals took notice right away, alerted the ranger, and went out in search of them. They ended up being fine, but it was nice to see how everyone rallied for people they barely knew.

We saw that every group or pair has a range of speeds and abilities along the trail. Every group or pair has times where their patience is tested, when they're exhausted. Some people make decisions that are baffling, like carrying larger or heavier gear than necessary, or glass bottles or jars that they are only going to have to keep carrying once they are empty and no longer useful. Even though are relatively young and in decent physical shape, I was still very sore an tired by the end of it. Other people were less physically prepared or had many years on us, but completed the trail all the same. 

Michael really loved being off the grid and unable to check his email. Waking up in the morning with three priorities simplifies your day. 1 - Cook and eat a lot of calories. 2 - Get from point A to point B with all your stuff. 3- Enjoy nature. Carrying all your food and garbage makes you much more mindful of your own consuming habits. 

I love that Sutherland Falls, New Zealand's highest waterfall, has not at all been commercialized, or even made remotely easy to get to. From the trail after already walking for five hours or so, it's another hour and a half side trip walk. I got to look at it with a total of three other people, and not buses full of tourists. Michael swam in the pool below it with two friendly endangered blue ducks. 

Speaking of waterfalls, we got incredibly lucky with our weather. That sounds like a strange sentence, but it's true. This is an area that gets 200 days of rain a year, and our first three days were dry. This makes for easier and more comfortable backpacking. However, our last day the skies let loose. Even though we finished soaked, we were able to see the mountains change. A mountain might have one or two little waterfalls when it's not raining, but during and after rain there are literally 10, one after another. We were lucky to see the great contrast, and possibly during the best part of the hike for it. 

Sandflies. There are not mosquitoes, there are sandflies. If you are walking, they are not an issue. If you stop, they gradually build up. If you are in a spot where people tend to stop, especially just outside the huts, they build up and swarm and never go away. They suck your blood and make you itch. You just kind of have to deal with them. They like to give a grand finale at the aptly named Sandfly Point where the trail ends.

Then you crowd onto a little boat with all the other smelly hikers and take in the world-famous Milford Sound. Now, which Great Walk is next, and when?